Hayley Barclay travels to family-friendly hotel, Das Muhlwald, South Tyrol, for the second part of her adventure-filled family holiday with her three year old son…
Continuing our South Tyrolean adventure, the second stop on our trip was another family-friendly hotel, Das Muhlwald. I previously wrote about our first stop at the mega-resort Quellenhof here but we also wanted to try something a bit more boutique and totally child-focused, for contrast.
To recap, we flew to the Dolomites with Sky Alps, a small Italian airline that flies weekly during the summer from Gatwick to Bolzano. From there it was about an hour’s transfer to Quellenhof, near Meran, before we travelled across the mountains to the plateau of Natz-Schabs, near Brixen.
Taxis in South Tyrol are incredibly expensive – we were quoted about £300 for a 50-mile journey – so we decided to brave public transport. But there was no need to be brave. At all. It was so easy and cheap compared to train or bus travel in the UK. Meran station was abundant with sweet-smelling jasmine and there was even a charming little bar on the platform where you can have a glass of wine or coffee while waiting for your (on time and clean) train.
It was a breeze, took about two hours and we hopped in a taxi for the final leg as we had so much luggage.
Why south tyrol makes the perfect destination for a holiday with young children…
Das Muhlwald
Das Muhlwald is quite extraordinary. If you are looking for a place that caters for children with adults as their “plus ones”, this is it. It’s decked out like a very posh creche and there is even a slide that whizzes you down to the pool and enormous play area. And though the resort, located amidst apple meadows and fir forests, is fairly compact, it’s designed to feel full of light and air. The energy throughout the hotel is calm, kind and playful and on arrival we were greeted by a fleet of lovely prams that guests can borrow and a floor full of traditional wooden toys – here, children really are the stars of the show. We were welcomed with prosecco, a fancy mocktail and snack for our son – so we were off to a good start.
The Room
We stayed in Suite Pippi – a cosy two-bedroom space with a children’s “berth” complete with huge windows and fun wall art. The master bedroom led to the balcony (so our son did not have access without us) and the oak floors, smart TVs, sleek bathroom and kitchenette made it the ideal little base for our stay. There are no phones in the rooms, no room service and no tea or coffee making facilities so doing everything en famille is encouraged. This is a lovely idea but at times it might have been a bit more convenient to be able to ring for assistance rather than walk to reception.
The Facilities
Child’s play at Das Muhlwald centers around Milli’s Kids’ Club, headed up by Milli the resort hedgehog. It’s small, personalised and just off the main foyer so you never feel that far away – almost like the kids are just playing nicely in the next room. Activities include feeding the animals on the on-site petting farm, discos, baking bread at a bonfire and loads of crafts and time spent outdoors. It’s open from 9am until 9pm – but do check the schedule for different ages – and you can just pop your child in and out as it suits you. Milli herself even visits once a week. Outside there is a heated infinity pool, the farm, a large playground with a giant apple (apples are a theme), sandpit and a whooshy inflatable tyre slide. All that fresh air is excellent for bed times. Meanwhile the indoor pool area has an adrenaline-fuelled wave slide, a wonder lamp pool, children’s rasul and tons of pool toys so you don’t have to worry about bringing your own arm bands or floaties. Indoors, there’s a race track, ball pit and “Milli’s Hedgehog Den” with a climbing frame.
To recharge, there is also a peaceful, hidden adults-only spa and pool that you need a room key to access – so not a stray child in sight. It was cleverly separate and a real mini sanctuary.
Off resort there’s hiking and biking …because as the hotel’s owners say: “The woods, meadows and mountains become your own personal playground”.
The food
Possibly a regional thing, but the format for supper was soup, salad, two a la carte courses and pudding, all chosen at breakfast. It certainly made the evening meal more streamlined! Sometimes it felt a bit early in the day to decide what to eat hours later, but generally it worked well. All the buffet options were fresh and plentiful with lots of cheese, salads and cold meats on offer. The best option is full board – every lunch hearty bowls of pasta are prepared and there’s always ice cream on tap. Breakfast is served from 7am – great for early risers – and in the late afternoon the hotel provides a selection of lovely, traditional treats such as apple strudel and apple polenta cake. Note alcohol, soft drinks and water are not included in full or half board.
For parents with infants there is a neat little baby station equipped with bibs, milk, organic baby food and snacks, open 24 hours a day. The restaurant area is convivial and fuss-free – absolutely no need to worry about children making noise or getting down from the table so you can really relax – because everyone is in the same boat.
Das Muhwald is family run and you can tell so much thought has gone into everything – from the bottle of locally-pressed apple juice on checkout, children-sized loos and sinks in every bathroom to laundry facilities to the super-friendly staff.
A special shout out too to the suave bar manager whose knowledge of local grappa was supreme and gave a more sophisticated, adult air to the evenings.
It’s a nurturing, wholesome, special place and kids and adults alike are treated like VIPs – an eye-opening first for me.
Must have Travel accessories
Pure Earth Collection – this lush organic brand is dreamy and perfect for a bit of matching swimwear
Bling2Go goggles – these are almost like toys in themselves and great for a child’s first set of goggles
TLC Sport – Designed by women for women and with a recent collab with Julien Macdonald this sportswear brand is super flattering and ideal for hikes and running around
Blue Almonds Hoppstar camera – my son loved copying his mum taking pictures of food and doing selfies with this durable, easy to use little gadget
Mamas and Papas Libro stroller – lightweight and stylish, this pram was perfect for longer walks and still big enough for a (lazy!) pre-schooler
Salomon outerwear – this French brand’s trainers and lightweight hiking jacket that folds up tiny is a great addition for an active holiday
Read more family travel review here
