Hayley Barclay travels to Quellenhof Luxury Resort Passeier for an adventure-filled family holiday with her three year old son…
The Dolomites is such a great destination for young families. My son is three and a half so too old for snoozy beach breaks and not old enough to sit still for long so I wanted somewhere with lots of outdoorsy things to do and a manageable flight time. South Tyrol in northern Italy ticked both those boxes. The dramatic, Sleeping Beauty-style views of forests and castles also made it extra magical.
The Italian Alps are normally associated with skiing but during the summer months the weather is warm and fresh – but not too hot – and the green, snow-capped mountains are glorious to look at. Parts of South Tyrol are only about 40 miles from the Austrian border so the food, architecture and scenery has quite a Germanic feel – so you get the best of both cultures.
We flew with Sky Alps, a boutique Italian airline that flies weekly during the summer from Gatwick to Balzano. The flight time is 2.5 hours on a small propeller plane that feels a bit like a private jet and unlike most short-haul flights, snacks and drinks are complimentary – a nice surprise!
The Gatwick Ibis is also a great shout for families travelling from London but with a long drive first. It’s located about a 10-minute shuttle or bus from the terminal and packs everything you could need for a brief overnight into one affordable package. The decor is playful – there’s a decorative life-sized Mini in the foyer that also serves a breakfast bar – and the hotel left my son a few treats too. Colouring books, an ice cream voucher and some fun, branded water bottles for our onward journey were much appreciated. Rooms start at about £100 per night.
The hotel
Our first stop was the Quellenhof Luxury Resort Passeier, located near the city of Merano and about a 45- transfer from Bolzano Airport. If you’re looking for absolutely everything you need in one place, then this is your go-to. From several spas to a waterpark to indoor rock climbing, as well as exquisite fine dining, Quellenhof is a vast, opulent super-resort.
The property is divided into a series of “Guest Houses”, all connected by labyrinthine corridors – it takes a good few days to get your bearings. We were based in the family section and even though it was child-friendly, it still felt supremely five-star. The hotel’s unhurried luxury seemed to literally infuse guests because there was no shouting or crying – at all. Almost like a spell! The decor is Alpine chic with dramatic art and sculptures lining the corridors and the grounds are immaculately kept. You could stay for two weeks and see something new every day.
The room
We stayed in a one-bedroom family apartment that could sleep up to five people. The child’s room was separate with two single beds and a cot while the super king size adult bed looked over the large terrace and mountains. The wood panelling and clean lines made it a calm space with enough room to do your own thing. It came with a mini bar that was stocked daily with champagne, wine, beer and spirits and a smart coffee maker.
The facilities
Where to begin – the amenities for both kids and adults were outstanding. The main draw in our ‘guesthouse’ was the water park. With multiple slides – including a zippy drop slide – a lazy river, baby pool, rubber rings and fountains, it was pretty epic and you could easily spend the whole day there. All the pools were heated too so little ones won’t get chilly. There is also a kid-friendly spa. South Tyroleans take spa-ing quite seriously so it was not unusual to see kids enjoying a (reduced heat) sauna, experience shower or ice bath. A bowling alley, trampoline park, cinema, climbing wall and playgrounds meant there really is something to do from dawn till dusk.
For older children, there are tennis lessons, horse riding, golf, hiking and various excursions to the nearby meadows, river and mountains – though some activities have a fee.
The kids club is open from 9am until 9pm and includes lunch and dinner at no extra cost. We dropped our son there for a few hours a few times a day and despite being the only English-speaking child, he loved his new friends and even watched Shrek in German. The 9pm finish meant we could have dinner by ourselves one night and his babysitter took him back to our room until we came back. Babysitting is £15 per hour after 9pm and can be billed to your room.
If you enjoy a spa then Quellenhof is unbeatable. In the adults only areas there is a floating infinity pool, countless heat and ice therapies, guided sauna sessions, wild swimming, you name it. The spas feel part of the mountain, all stone, glass and natural light and there is herbal tea and infused water at every turn. Or you can just relax by one of the infinity pools with a drink. It’s quiet, calm and very grown up. One thing to note is that in South Tyrol a “no textile” rule applies for most of the facilities so…leave your robe at the door! There is also a daily hike that leaves the hotel at about 10am.
The food
We had the half board option, which is recommended as Quellenhof is not cheap if ordering la carte, even the bottled water adds up. Breakfast each day was a brilliant feast of pastries, dozens of types of fresh bread, cheese, meat, pancakes or hot food. We ate in the elegant restaurant on the floor above and you’re seated at the same table every day. There is even a chilled juicing room where you can concoct your own smoothies and the service was friendly and attentive. Despite the elegant surroundings children are not made to feel in the way and every morning you’re also greeted with the daily resort ‘newspaper’ outlining all the day’s activities and recommendations for local culture.
Each morning you choose your evening ‘tasting menu’ options. Dinner is five courses, including a salad and soup and the starters and main courses range from classics like carbonara to local fish to premium cut steak and veal. You definitely will not go hungry. Five courses can take quite a long time for a three year old so we ordered room service one night and the a la carte options were divine. For a real treat there is the See Lodge underwater (adults only) restaurant that has won various awards for its cuisine – but it was sadly closed the nights we were there. Next time!
I have never stayed anywhere quite like Quellenhof. The sheer size of it was breathtaking. And despite its enormity and the volume of guests, it felt like a boutique, personalised holiday – sophisticated, adventure-filled and unique.
Rates for a double room for two guests start at about £400 per night on a half board basis. BOOK HERE
Travel essentials for a trip to the Dolomites
Helly Hansen sliders and walking boots – essential for the mountain terrain and pool
A Shushiie white noise machine – perfect for nodding off
Avery Row pram and changing bag – roomy but still stylish
Dr David Jack travel skincare
Muddy Puddles swimwear and cosy pajamas – durable, comfy and brightly-coloured
smarTrike Traveler – a nifty pram and tricycle hybrid that evolves with your toddler
