Ina Yulo Stuve on travelling to Milan with a baby in tow…
As the summer sun started to fade and the cooler weather began creeping its way in, the only thing that a travel fiend like myself could think about was where to go for an autumn staycation. After going on a longhaul holiday with my baby in the summer, I was on the lookout for a destination that was just a short flight away from London, had favourable weather in the Fall, and was especially baby-friendly: Milan ticked all of those boxes.
Exploring Milan
Milan is a city that conjures visions of sharp-jawed models strutting down the runway in the latest cutting edge fashion, or for the bankers among us, it may be the inside of a conference hall that you’re remembering when someone mentions this industry powerhouse in the middle of Italy’s wealthy Lombardy region. Modern Milan has since shed its more buttoned-up image and stepped out as an international hub for creatives and young talent, brimming with design-forward influences.
Its location in the Po Valley did not only make Milan a fertile ground for agriculture, but for baby-toting families like us (the Najell Rise carrier blended fashion and comfort perfectly for this trip), its flat landscape means there are no steep hills to climb—winning! Key landmarks like the Duomo, Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, and La Scala opera house are all relatively near one another, making Milan an incredibly walkable city. After paying a visit to the iconic Duomo, there’s a good deal of shopping to be had a short stroll away amidst the breathtaking glass ceiling of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping arcade. For gastronomes, have your fill of Milanese signature dishes like saffron risotto and osso bucco at a traditional trattoria—we recommend Trattoria Massueli San Marco, which has been operating since 1921.
The Hotel
Set in the heart of Milan’s fashion district—just a short walk from the Duomo and designer boutique-lined Via Monte Napoleone—Mandarin Oriental Milan is a stunning five-star luxury hotel that expertly blends classic charm with modern elegance. Four 18th-century palazzo buildings were brought together and restored by renowned architects Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel, who were also responsible for the hotel’s refined interiors. Tucked away from the main street, the doormen-fronted entrance has a discrete allure, welcoming guests into the spacious lobby.
Like all of the properties in the Mandarin Oriental group, the Milanese outpost boasts an exceptional spa and wellness programme: indulge in treatments that merge the best of Eastern and Western techniques, take a dip in the tranquil swimming pool (children are welcome during dedicated hours), work up a sweat in the fitness centre, or get a new ‘do at the in-house salon.
The Suite
After a rather chaotic arrival—transport issues at the airport resulted in us having to take a train, transfer during rush hour, and eventually hail an Uber)—walking into our suite brought immediate relief. The Milano suite combines 60sqm of oak wood flooring, generous wardrobe space, expansive windows, two flat-screen televisions, a luxurious marble bathroom, and a lounge area that invites you to sink in the moment you arrive. Our baby Cecilia was treated not as a guest, but as an actual VIP—a handwritten welcome note lays inside a wooden cot, right next to an array of brand new (and still boxed) toys, a colouring book, a bib, steriliser, and a stuffed version of the hotel’s mascot, MiniMO the panda. The attention to detail is truly astounding: greeting us at the foot of our king-sized bed is a framed family photo of us (“We hope it makes you feel like you are home,” a staff member explains) and by the sink inside the adjoining bathroom, three towels with the letters I, B, and C (our initials) sit under a bright pink orchid.
The Food
When it comes to getting a taste of la dolce vita, Mandarin Oriental Milan offers immaculate fine dining at two-starred-Michelin restaurant Seta or a more casual menu of local and international favourites at all-day restaurant Mandarin Garden. Coming in on an evening flight, we were pleasantly surprised to see such an extensive room service menu: Pugliese-style focaccia (a specialty of the chef, we’re told) with Parma ham and burrata and a beautifully-cooked chicken and potato dish made for the perfect late-night meal while relaxing in our robes after a warm shower.
Breakfasts are spent at Mandarin Garden, where the menu is curated by Seta’s acclaimed chef Antonio Guida. The generous buffet takes guests from continental classics, to hearty American-style pancakes and maple syrup, to warming congee and other Oriental specialties, while the a la carte menu features dishes like eggs royale with a decadent caviar hollandaise. We were lucky to have visited in November, when the gorgeous Winter truffles were in season. For lunch, we enjoyed this exquisite delicacy shaved on top of fresh taglioni in a rich butter sauce. Subtle nods to the hotel’s Eastern roots appear in a ponzu-laced beef carpaccio, and a hazelnut sponge cake layered with mango and passionfruit.
The ultimate in family-friendly travel
It’s no secret that the Italians love babies—Instagram is flooded with videos of tourists happily handing their crying babies over to loving nonnas who will gladly entertain them while their parents enjoy a meal in a trattoria. We experienced the same everywhere we went—from the barista at the nearby coffee shop who played games with Cecilia, to the waiter at the local restaurant who offered her some Italian savoiardi biscuits when she was getting fussy, Italians really embody the “it take a village to raise a child” approach to children.
However, nothing prepared us for how the team at Mandarin Oriental Milan would go above and beyond the call of duty when our little one suffered a medical emergency. At 1am on our first night, Cecilia woke up in hysterics and we realised her eyes were swollen and she had broken out in hives. Our initial fear was that she was having an allergic reaction, and immediately called reception. What followed was a heroic effort by the hotel team, led by Night Manager Essam, who called an ambulance and had a private doctor ready on standby. Another staff member handed Cecilia a stuffed panda as we waited, and soon we were off to the children’s hospital. Thankfully, the doctors informed us Cecilia’s body was reacting to a viral infection making its way out of her system, and sent us home with a prescription for some antihistamine. Once we made our way back to the hotel, we were greeted by Essam, who asked my husband if he would like a glass of whisky (he had heard my husband jokingly say he would need one after all that had happened) and volunteered to make a copy of our prescription so that his team could buy the medicines themselves and have it ready for us the moment we woke up. After a restful evening, the kitchen team sent up a box of their sublime pastries, knowing I decided to have a lie-in instead of coming to breakfast.
The verdict
With a prime location just a stone’s throw away from Milan’s best attractions, luxurious suites with personalised touches, and an unbeatable food and beverage programme, Mandarin Oriental Milan is the clear choice when seeking a five-star stay in Italy’s capital of cool.
Whether she was bouncing on the knee of the hotel’s marketing manager or being greeted by name by staff at reception, our daughter Cecilia was given five-star treatment throughout our visit. The nurturing atmosphere and authentic care that Mandarin Oriental Milan’s staff has for children is incomparable and was a highlight of our trip to Milan.
Baby’s packing list
Travelling during the autumn months means you have to be prepared or anything, weather-wise. For Cecilia, we had all our bases covered with Rosa & Blue’s thermo-regulating sleepsuits, Love to Dream’s new 2.5 TOG long-sleeved sleeping bag made with Australian merino wool and cotton, and for wetter days, no one does it better than PO.P and their waterproof puddle suits. We spent our days out and about, but Cecilia didn’t have to sacrifice on naptime when she was snuggled up in the Najell Rise baby carrier, her toes staying toasty in faux fur bunny booties by Monsoon. When back at the hotel, the age-appropriate toys in Lovevery’s Thinker playkit offered oodles of sensory fun and learning. Cecilia couldn’t be in Milan without bringing out her fashionable side—so Rachel Riley it was for a festive blackwatch plaid dress with classy tights by Monsoon for fancy nights out, and for more casual days, colour-loving Blade & Rose’s meadow farmyard set was our go-to.
Mum’s packing list
Being in Milan, I put together a capsule wardrobe that favoured natural fabrics and pieces that could be worn in different looks. As a petite woman, MOTHER’s Kick It Flood jeans in Do Not Disturb are the perfect length and as a mum, the touch of stretch and high-rise cut are a win-win. Speaking of flattering cuts, I always turn to With Nothing Underneath when it comes to a brand that just gets women’s bodies. Last autumn, they launched their popular Devon jumper in 100% lambswool and I immediately nabbed one in oatmeal. Layering is a must during those tricky in-between months, and throwing on this cosy yellow cardigan from Sézane over any outfit delivered both warmth and a cheerful pop of colour, especially when paired with this versatile pair of tropical wool trousers by Rise & Fall. Monsoon caught me by surprise with their range of women’s wear, and this Luella top with feather cuffs paired with velvet Mary Janes from Penelope Chilvers’s new collection—love the diamante detail—and a spritz of the floral-musky notes of Missing Person by Phlur made for the ideal dinnertime outfit. After a busy day exploring, squeezing in a bit of self-care made a big difference to my mood. Saltair has just entered the UK, but it’s already causing a frenzy, and for good reason—I love the entire Santal Bloom line. Comfortable sleepwear is a non-negotiable, and alternating between this feminine gingham If Only If nightie and the fun floral leopard set by Chelsea Peers helped me drift off in peace.
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